Planting Time ~~A New Friend~~Asparagus

According to Stephen Albert when the lilacs are in bloom is is time to put those plants in the ground. http://www.harvestwizard.com/ (search April Almanac) Well, my lilacs are blooming, two new beds have been prepared, the porch is full of plants hardening off, and I am ready ... or I will be ready as soon as the rain stops. In between the Easter activities I know where I will be.


We have had showers off and on all week frustrating those of us who are dying to get out to the garden. But it has not been without its compensations. Getting a little more water in the system is one nice thing, making a new friend is even nicer.

There are doves that visit here from time to time. I love to listen to them softly cooing in the early morning. Summer evenings I find them looking for seeds in the driveway and sometimes in the garden. Lately on foggy, drizzly mornings they have been in the front garden. They don't seem to fly off as quickly as they did in the past. Each day they appear to be more relaxed about my presence. This morning I chanced getting a little closer. See the photo. I swear she was posing for me.



The Asparagus


Each spring a local supermarket announces asparagus time by heralding the arrival of Victoria Island asparagus. Victoria is one of the farmed islands in the Delta, just east of San Francisco. when these succulent spears get to market I am sure we will have no more winter. Never mind the groundhog, never mind the lilacs, I put my money on those Victoria Island spears.

I have always wanted an asparagus bed but space here is just too limited. My house sits on a half acre lot with eight huge oaks, an acacia and two bays. Neighbors on either side have their own complement of forestry. The sun shines nicely in the front, but that is where the deer gaze. Last spring I put in a fence to protect the back, but in that area there is limited sunshine, limited space and a lot of concrete. So, I still buy my asparagus.


For a while we were told by young, inexperienced chefs that the thin spears were the most tender, and the best. At that time we were deep into the baby vegetable era. I believe they may have been under the mistaken impression that these thin stalks were "baby" asparagus and assumed if left to grow they would become large and tough. That is not how asparagus works. Thin spears are from the newer plants and if left uncut they will just open and burst forth with the fern like foliage of the plant. It is the age of the plant that determines the size of the spear, not the age of the spear. If I were going to use raw asparagus on a plate of vegetables served with a dip, I would choose the thin one. But for all other dishes I want the mid-size to fat ones which are the sweetest, juiciest and, I believe, most desirable.

If you want to be sure the asparagus you are buying is young and tender, look at the tip. Each of those little "caps" should be tight against the stalk. As the spear matures each one opens and shoots off a fern like foliage emerge. The grower always leaves a few stalks uncut. The stalk will open giving forth these ferns until the bed is filled with them. The plants spend the rest of the summer absorbing the sun to manufacture the energy needed to produce for next year.


Always look for firm round spears. When you bring them home cut a tiny bit off the bottom of each spear, stand upright in a glass, or jar, with about an inch of tepid water in the bottom. Slip a plastic bag over the top of the asparagus and jar and place in the refrigerator until you are ready to use them.


And what about those bent spears? Asparagus is a little strange that way. The tops of the spears will bend their heads into the wind. In years when there has been a lot of wind in the growing region there will be a lot of bent spears. I have no idea why they do that; you will have to ask a botanist.



Recipes



If this is a first course I suggest you use three spears per portion. If this is the main part of a lunch or brunch, I suggest you use four or five for each serving.

Wrapped Asparagus Spears

For each serving you will need:

1 lasagna noodle

3 to 5 asparagus spears

1/2 to 1 slice prosciutto or other very thinly sliced ham

For six large bundles you will need:

1 tablespoons oil (for the lasagna water)

2 1/2 tablespoons butter

2 1/2 tablespoons oil

1/2 cup finely chopped onions

1/8 teaspoon powdered mushroom, or 1/4 cup finely chopped mushrooms

1/4 cup minced parsley

6 1/2 tablespoons flour

1 1/4 cup chicken broth
About 1 cup water, as needed to bring sauce to proper consistency

Heat the butter and oil over moderately low heat. When bubbling add the onions. If using fresh mushrooms add those, also. (Fresh mushrooms will add more liquid to the sauce and this is why you have to judge the amount of liquid needed at the end.) Cook until the onions are limp and translucent. Stir often and do not brown. Add parsley and mushroom powder, if using. Stir in.

Proceed as you would if making a bechamel. Remove from heat, whisk in the flour until completely incorporated. Return to the heat and continue cooking for 30 seconds. Over low heat, whisk in the chicken broth making sure there are no lumps. Add 1/2 cup of the water slowly while whisking and continue cooking until the sauce is thickened, about 20 minutes. Add enough of the remaining water until the sauce is the consistency melted ice cream. Spoon enough of the sauce into the bottom of the baking dish to barely cover. Set the sauce aside.

Wash the asparagus. Break off the ends and set them aside for soup. See below. Cook the lasagna pasta in boiling water and 1 tablespoon oil, as the package directs but cut two minutes off the time stated. when the pasta is done lay each on a damp paper towel and cover with another damp dowel; repeat covering the last with a damp towel. In the same boiling water simmer one serving of asparagus for 1 minute.

Lay out one lasagna pasta. Place the asparagus spears, then prosciutto on top and roll the pasta around all, making a close bundle. Place in the baking dish. Repeat until finished. Spoon the sauce over the bundles being especially careful to cover the pasta completely. Cover and place in a 350 degree oven for 30 to 45 minutes or until the sauce begins to bubble. Remove cover and return to oven for 5 minutes.

Serve.

Tip: OK, why are we using the same water for both the pasta and the vegetable? Well there is a water shortage in Texas, California, and for the last several years in Georgia. Those are just the ones I know about. So, I guess unless you live in North Dakota, on the Red River, you may need to think about saving water. Using water already heated saves fuel.

Ordinarily I would not add oil to the water when cooking pasta. In this recipe some of the noodles are going to sit a bit before being used; they will need that little bit of oil.

Asparagus Soup

What to do with those ends. There are probably two cups of ends left, more or less. Peel any part of the end that is not a smooth green, then cut into 1/4 inch thick disks. In a pot heat 2 teaspoons oil and saute 1/4 cup diced onions with the asparagus ends. When the onion is limp add 1/8 teaspoon curry powder, 1/4 teaspoon of salt, 1/8 teaspoon white pepper, 1/2 medium potato, peeled and diced, 1 cup chicken broth and 1 cup water. Bring to simmer, cover and cook for about 25 to 30 minutes or until potatoes are falling apart and the asparagus is soft. Remove from heat and let cool slightly. Place in a blender, cover and puree. Return to the pot. Add 1/2 cup milk. Taste and adjust seasoning. Return to the stove to reheat before serving. If you have any asparagus tips left they would make a nice decoration.

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